Durango is a small city of 20,000 people in southwest Colorado. Incorporated in 1881, it was home to the Denver and Rio Grande Railroad that serviced the nearby San Juan mining district in Silverton. Today it is a thriving tourist destination with many activities and its Downtown Durango Historic Business District. I enjoyed my three-night stay during my first visit to the area. My top recommendations include:
Where to Eat
The historic Strater Hotel is located downtown at 699 Main Ave. It is home to a Wild West themed saloon, the Diamond Belle Saloon; The Office Spiritorium craft cocktail lounge and The Mahogany Grille, a fine dining steak and seafood restaurant. I went to all three. I enjoyed the Diamond Belle for lunch after arriving in town. I then went to The Office Spiritorium where I enjoyed the live music and a great old fashioned before dinner. I then went next door to The Mahogany Grill and enjoyed the scallop risotto.
Seasons of Durango: I went to Seasons for dinner on my first night in town. Opened in 1994, this is an upscale restaurant with great staff, food and atmosphere. They have a focus on fresh, locally sourced ingredients. I had some great crabcakes for dinner with sauteed spinach and a tasty key lime pie. 764 Main St.
Perbacco Cucina Italiana is a cozy restaurant featuring Italian comfort food and wine. I had a great meal on my last night in town. I enjoyed a great spaghetti marinara with mussels, shrimp, clams and calamari. I also liked my server, the staff and the warm atmosphere.
Jean Pierre Bakery & Wine Bar is located downtown at 601 Main St. It is a French bakery, cafe and wine bar with a casual breakfast and lunch menu along with fresh baked goods and pastries. I went for brunch before heading to the airport to fly back to Chicago. I enjoyed the live music, atmosphere and service. I had a great omelette, pastry and a cafe au lait.
Carver Brewing Co.: Carver Brewing is a long-standing local microbrewery from 1983 at 1022 Main Ave. It produces a number of ales, stouts, lagers, IPAs and ciders. They have a large food menu for lunch and dinner. I stopped in and really enjoyed the Raspberry Wheat Ale which was very light and refreshing.
Durango Coffee Company: Located at 730 Main Ave., I stopped in for a latte after lunch at the Diamond Belle Saloon.
Durango Diner: This is a traditional casual diner from 1970 with a great atmosphere and service. I enjoyed my eggs benedict for lunch. It is open every day from 6:30am to 1:30pm. 957 Main Ave.
Cream Bean Berry is a fun local, artisan ice cream shop downtown, open from November 2015, at 1021 Main Ave. All of the flavors are hand-crafted from local ingredients by its local staff. The coconut chocolate was excellent!
Animas Chocolate & Coffee Company is an attractive local coffee and artisan chocolate shop at 920 Main Ave. I enjoyed a great latte and a tasty sea salt dark chocolate truffle. I was so glad to have found it.
Other places to try include:
Bread Cafe: This is a local artisan bakery featuring a large menu of breads along with breakfast and lunch items. 135 E. 8th St.
Lola’s Place is a downtown restaurant serving breakfast, lunch and dinner along with a coffee bar that serves specialty coffee and tea. They have a nice outdoor patio.
Hermosa Cafe is an attractive, casual restaurant serving coffee drinks, breakfast and lunch, snacks, beer and cocktails. 738 Main Ave.
Steamworks Brewing Company: This is a local downtown brewery that produces a number of beers inhouse. It has a fun tap room with a large food menu. 801 E. 2nd Ave.
El Rancho Tavern is a casual bar featuring live music, pool and sports on TV. The story of El Rancho Tavern begins in the grand 1892 Central Hotel building at 975 Main Ave., originally a French Second Empire style structure that housed a saloon, lodge rooms, and even a bank over the years. In 1941, the space on the ground floor had officially taken on the name El Rancho Tavern, becoming a local staple in downtown Durango.
What to Do
Durango has a lot to do from outdoor activities to cultural, music and community events throughout the year.
In the winter you can ski Purgatory which is a 30-minute drive from Durango. Travel + Leisure Magazine reported that it is one of the last affordable ski destinations in Colorado. The Durango Independent Film Fest happens annually in March. The San Juan Symphony also performs annually from February through May. Also in May, the Spring Gallery Walk downtown is the second Friday. Make sure to check out the schedule of events of the Durango Creative District.
In the spring there is the Durango Celtic Festival in late March with a lineup of bands performing Celtic music. In April the Durango Wine Experience happens at the end of the month.
During the warmer months, outdoor activities include river sports like rafting, cycling, hiking, rock climbing, fly fishing, horseback riding, visiting hot springs and jeep tours.
In the summer, The True West Rodeo is in June. You can enjoy the Durango Playfest in June and the San Juan Brewfest in August featuring many breweries and bands. Music in the Mountains is a classic summer festival in July and August for over 40 years. Concert Hall at the Park features music in Buckley park from late June to early August.
In the fall there is the Durango Autumn Arts Festival, that is hosted by the Durango Arts Center in September, and the Fall Gallery Walk on the third Friday of September. In October there is the popular Oktoberfest in Buckley Park. Another popular event is the Animas Valley Balloon Rally with several hot air balloon events over three days.
One of the highlights of my trip was taking the historic Durango and Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad to Silverton. “Durango, Colorado was founded by the Denver & Rio Grande Railway in 1880. The railroad arrived in Durango on August 5, 1881, and construction on the line to Silverton began in the fall of the same year. By July of 1882, the tracks to Silverton were completed, and the train began hauling both freight and passengers.
The line was constructed to haul silver & gold ore from Southwest Colorado’s San Juan Mountains, but passengers soon realized it was the view that was truly precious.
This historic train has been in continuous operation between Durango and Silverton since 1882, carrying passengers behind historic steam and diesel locomotives and rolling stock indigenous to the line.”
There are several packages available along with several classes of service. You can choose some of the historic train cars from 1925 that are now 100 years old. I chose to take the bus up and the diesel train back on the same day. This gave me the chance to walk downtown and explore and have a great lunch, before returning to Durango. I also loved seeing the views from the train which goes along the creeks and canyons at a maximum speed of 15 to 20 miles per hour.
Where to Shop
Animas Trading Company: This is a small boutique selling clothing, accessories, jewelry and home decor items. 742 Main Ave.
Urban Market Interiors: This is a local home decor store, since 2024. 865 Main Ave.
Maria’s Bookshop at 960 Main Ave. is a local bookstore featuring books for adults and kids in addition to cards and toys, along with stationery and gifts.
Earthen Vessel Gallery is an attractive gallery featuring studio glass, pottery and ceramics, jewelry and fine art. It opened in 1976. 934 Main Ave.
Sorrel Sky Gallery is an upscale art gallery that features Native American, Western, landscape, wildlife and animal art along with photography, fine art prints, sculptures, books, jewelry and Navajo weaving. 828 Main St. They also have locations in Santa Fe, NM, East Hampton, NY and SOHO in NYC.
There’s No Place Like Home is a gift shop and women’s boutique featuring clothing, jewelry and accessories. 822 Main Ave.
Durango Antique Market: This is a group of 25 local vendors selling quality antiques and collectibles including books, jewelry, furniture, western items and vintage clothing. 780 Main Ave.
Toast Records & Bakes is a small shop featuring new and used vinyl records from a variety of genres and pastries. 643A Main Ave.
Where to Stay
General Palmer Hotel: This is an historic hotel located in the heart of downtown Durango that was built in 1898. It offers a blend of Old-World charm and modern amenities. I enjoyed my very nice deluxe king room and the complimentary breakfast offered on the first floor. There is free parking in the attached lot. It is a great location from which to walk and explore downtown and try some of the many local cafes and restaurants.
It is next to the train station of the Durango and Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad which makes it very easy to take a day trip. I loved hearing the sounds of the steam trains as they left and entered the station. 567 Main Ave.
At 699 Main Ave. is the historic Strater Hotel with 88 rooms. It is an attractive property in a great location. If you decide to stay, I would make sure to request a very quiet room as there are three bars and restaurants on the first floor with nightly live music. I went to all three. See my info above. It also hosts weddings and events.
Also getting great reviews is the Antler on the Creek which was built in 1903. It has 5 suites and sits on 4.5 acres near Lightner Creek Canyon 5 miles outside of town. 999 County Road 207.
