BRIDGEPORT
Bridgeport is an historic, working class neighborhood on Chicago’s South Side, that was settled by a large number if Irish, Lithuanian, Polish and more recently Mexican and Chinese immigrants who have all contributed immensely to the area from its churches to its food culture. It became a major industrial center in the city at the beginning of the twentieth century. It was also the birthplace or home of five Chicago mayors including Richard J. Daley and his son Richard M. Daley. Today it has become a mecca for artists to open studios in all mediums. In addition, it has seen large growth in a number of new restaurants, of which many reflect the cultural diversity of the community.
GREAT ART IN BRIDGEPORT
There several historic buildings in Bridgeport that are home to a number of artists’ studios and galleries.
Zhou B Art Center: At 1029 W 35th St., is the Zhou B Foundation established by the well-known artists, the Zhou Brothers. This is a great loft building housing artists’ studios and galleries. They host regular monthly art walks on the 3rd Friday and special curated exhibitions showcasing works in various media from local and international artists. Like the nearby Bridgeport Arts Center, it is located in a former Spiegel building. It is also open for special events and weddings. The Zhou B Secret Garden, nearby on Morgan St., is also a venue for special events and weddings.
Bridgeport Art Center: At 35th and Racine, this is a building that has many artists’ studios and galleries. Its Open Sudios – 3rd Friday event, features painters, sculptors, photographers, designers, and more. You can also take classes throughout the year. It is located in a former building of the Spiegel Company famous for its Spiegel Catalog. 1200 W. 35th.
The Art Center is home to 8A5E Base Coffee & Tech which offers coffee along with breakfast items and sandwiches. They also feature computer or technical support onsite.
On the lower lever of the Art Center is the Chicago Maritime Museum. This is a small museum dedicated to Chicago’s maritime history and traditions.
On my last visit to the area, I enjoyed visiting the Morgan Arts Complex, MAC, at 3622 S. Morgan St.for th first time. Located in an historic 150,000 sq. ft. building, this is an event space as well as a a gallery space and artists’ studios. I enjoyed walking through and seeing several photography exhibitions. There is also a casual bar and restaurant, Dolce Arte – The Art of Food, for coffee, pastries and a breakfast, lunch, weekend brunch and dinner menu.
WHERE TO EAT IN BRIDGEPORT
One of the top restaurants in the area is The Duck Inn at 2701 S. Eleanor. After getting great reviews, I had to go. Located just south of an industrial area, you can go south of Cermak on Loomis across the Chicago River. It has a warm, contemporary atmosphere in a building that looks like it was a local bar/restaurant for many years. They also have a large patio in back for dining in the warmer months. They are known for their Sunday brunch as well as their rotisserie duck entrée. You need to pre-order prior to your dinner. It serves two people, and comes with a salad of roasted potatoes in duck drippings with fall greens, roasted pears and apples in a gooseberry vinaigrette. It was a really excellent dish and was perfectly paired with a cocktail called The Don made with Wild Turkey 101 Bourbon, Cocchi Barolo Chinato, Nux Alpina Walnut Liqueur and Scrappy’s Chocolate Bitters.
I also recommend Bridgeport Coffee for it’s great coffee and atmosphere at its cafe at 3101 S. Morgan. I went back an again enjoyed the experience.
Across the street is Maria’s Packaged Good and Community Bar at 960 W. 31st St. This is a neighborhood bar serving cocktails and over 40 craft beers and ales. You can visit the old bar or the new taproom with an outdoor patio. They also have beer and liquor for sale in front.
Next door is Kimski, a counter service Korean Polish Street Food restaurant that Maria’s opened. You can eat in front on the patio or eat it in Maria’s new taproom in the back.
Also a must to visit is Kristoffer’s Cakes at 1735 W. 35th. I always liked Kristoffer’s Cafe & Bakery at 1733 S. Halsted. I recently went to their location on W. 35th. They are known for their tres leches cakes in several flavors including mango, Oreo, caramel mocha, vanilla and coconut. I chose the coconut and it was really excellent!!! It is in McKinley Park just west of Bridgeport.
Just west of Kristoffer’s is Cadinho Bakery & Café. After reading about it, I made a point to visit with a local friend. It is a Portuguese-style cafe opened by Alejandra Rivera and her husband Eric Carlson, after they lived in Portugal for two years. They have coffee drinks and pastries. But the highlight is the famed Portuguese pastéis de nata or flaky egg custard tarts. I had my first ones in Portugal which are also known as Pastéis de Belém. I had them again in the Newark NJ Ironbound or Portuguese neighborhood. They were excellent at Cadinho. You must try them!! We also enjoyed meeting Eric and learning about his story. 3483 S. Archer Ave.
Speaking of bakeries, I stopped by Fat Peach Bakery at 2907 S. Archer. I read about it as it opened in August 2024 in the former Bridgeport Bakery location. It is known for its pastries, croissanta and Danish pastries. Unfortunately, they were sold out of their baked goods and were serving coffee drinks only. I need to go earlier or preorder. Acording to Eater Chicago, Fat Peach was inspired by the Mexican bakery culture.
Opened in 2021, is Bad Owl Coffee Roasters at 3315 S. Morgan St. It serves coffee, tea and pastries. Its breakfast and lunch items include a large number of toasts and sandwiches. I enjoyed my first visit to this colorful café with a local friend. Based in Las Vegas, NV, this is their first Chicago location.
I also highly recommend that you try Jackalope Coffee & Tea House at 755 W. 32nd St. I recently went for the first time and really enjoyed the coffee and the hip vibe with its art and fun decorations.
I went later in the day to The Stockyard Coffeehouse at 558 W. 37th St. This is a small local coffee shop, owned by a couple and her sister who are from Mexico, but who live in Bridgeport. Here you can order a regular cup of coffee, specialty lattes, espresso shots, cortaditos and their signature drink the Mexican Mocha. They also have breakfast and brunch items. I liked their idea of offering several flights of small lattes with different flavors. These include the Stockyard Classic Flight ~ horchata, Mexican nocha, cafe de olla and coquito lattes. I enjoyed the horchata latte and visiting with the owners. I love supporing local businesses like this.
I really enjoyed my lunch choice, the Polo Inn at 3322 S. Morgan. Since 1985, it is open for lunch and dinner including their Sunday Gospel Brunch. I had a great omelette! I really enjoyed the historic photos throughout the space.
Just to the south is Antique Taco at 1000 W. 35th St. for gourmet tacos.
Make sure to stop in at Shinnick’s Pub at 3758 S. Union. This is a popular neighborhood Irish pub since 1938 with a fun atmosphere and a bar built in the late 1880s.
Others on my list to try include Franco’s Ristorante at 300 W. 31st for Italian classics since 1989. Gio’s Cafe and Deli is a casual spot for homemade Italian foods at 2724 S. Lowe and Ricobene’s at 252 W. 26th St. is known for its breaded Italian steak sandwiches and other Italian specialties since 1946. Another local Irish Pub or tavern is Cork & Kerry at The Park which can be found at 3258 S. Princeton Ave. Bernice’s Tavern is a popular dive bar for pub food, games and live music from 1965 at 3238 S. Halsted.
Also high on my list to try is Stussy’s Diner next to the Ramova Theater at 3500 S. Halsted St. They took over the former Bridgeport Restaurant space that was a neighorhood favorite for more than 70 years. I had planned to have brunch there, but it was closed on Saturday until 7pm. This is a fun, colorful, bright pink locally black-owned diner that opened in September 2024. The menu looks great. I will definitely go back on a day that it is open.
BRIDGEPORT’S HISTORIC ARCHITECTURE
Make sure to drive the area and see some of its historic Chicago bungalows and other architecture.
The area has some really outstanding architecture to explore. Make sure to visit:
Eleanor Boathouse: Located at Park 571 along the South Branch of the Chicago River, this is a contemporary, public boathouse designed by architect Jeanne Gang of Studio Gang. 2828 S Eleanor St. It is similar to her design for the boathouse on the North Side at 3400 N. Rockwell.
On a recent visit, I enjoyed visiting the Ling Shen Ching Tze Buddhist Temple at 1035 W. 31st. According to the Chicago Architecture Center, “this triangular-shaped brick church, originally Emmanuel Presbyterian Church, was designed by John Wellborn Root. Upon Root’s unexpected death in 1891, it was completed by his famous partner Daniel Burnham. The building’s simple geometry represents the signature style of Root that developed near the end of his short life. The building has been home to the Ling Shen Ching Tze Temple of True Buddha School since 1992. The temple is devoted to the teaching of Taoism, Sutrayana and Tantric philosophies. The façade and interior of the prayer chambers both display Vajrayana Buddhist embellishments and statues.”
Recommended on a virtual tour of the area, I made a point to visit St. Mary of Perpetual Help Catholic Church at 1039 W. 32nd St. The beautiful domed church was built in 1892 and in 1903 it became the first Polish Roman Catholic Church in the United States.
As part of Open House Chicago in 2021, I was pleased to be able to visit the Monastery of the Holy Cross at 3111 S. Aberdeen. It is a Benedictine monastery and the only urban monastery in the country. I particularly enjoyed seeing the beautiful altar. It was built in the German Gothic Revival Style and dedicated in 1910. The architect was Hermann J. Gaul, an apprentice of Louis Sullivan.
The historic Ramova Theater in Bridgeport, located at 3520 S. Halsted, opened in 1929 as a sister theater to the Music Box Theatre in Lakeview. Closed for over 35 years, it underwent a $28 million renovation to convert it to an entertainment space, restaurant and brewery. It opened in late 2023. I went for brunch October 2024 at the Grill & Taproom and enjoyed the shrimp and grits. I also tasted the Bridgeport Ale brewed onsite by Other Half Brewing. The Ramova offers special events, lectures, live music and more.
If you like Modernism architecture, stop by the campus of IIT, or Illinois Insitute of Technology, which has great architecture by Mies van der Rohe, Helmut Jahn and Dutch architect, Rem Koolhaas, who designed The McCormick Tribune Campus Center under the elevated tracks. Mies’ Crown Hall has recently been totally refurbished and is really exceptional. A two hour tour offered by the Chicago Architecture Center is quite informative and highly recommended. It is just east of Bridgeport across the expressway. 3300 S. Federal.
BACK OF THE YARDS
Back of the Yards is a residential and industrial neighborhood in Chicago southwest of Bridgeport. It was named for the fact that it was near the former Union Stock Yards which employed thousands of European immigrants in the early 20th century. Upton Sinclair’s 1906 novel, The Jungle, featured the neighborhood. After the Stock Yards closed the neighborhood was impacted for many years. But today there are a number of new businesses along with an increase in Mexican-American immigrants.
I had read about a number of things to do and explore as well as there were three locations featured in the Chicago Architectural Center’s Open House Chicago in October, 2021.
WHAT TO SEE AND DO
Start your visit to the neighorhood at the Union Stockyards Gate located at W. Exchange Ave. and S. Peoria St. This was the entrance to the famous Union Stock Yards. It was designed by John Wellborn Root of Burnham and Root around 1875, and is the only significant structural element of the stock yards to survive. The Union Stock Yards made Chicago famous as the “hog butcher to the world.” It was named a National Historic Landmark in 1981.
Marz Community Brewing Company: This is a local microbrewery and large 4,000 sq. ft. taproom at 3960 Iron St. In addition to tasting their beers, you can have snacks, sides, sandwiches, bowls, coffee and tea. They make a number of ales, IPAs, weisse beer with many unique flavors. I asked for something light and fresh and was served A Lifestyle Beer, which is a Berliner Weiss with Yerba Mate, Pineapple Lemongrass and Marigold Teas. It was really excellent and refreshing! It is in McKinley Park on the edge of Back of the Yards and Bridgeport.
As part of the Chicago Architecture Center’s 2021 Open House Chicago I was pleased to have toured The Plant and Plant Chicago.
Plant Chicago is located at 4459 S. Marshfield in a old firehouse on the Southwest side. It is a small community of food businesses. It is also home to an indoor market place in addition to a local farmers market. There are also activities and workshops throughout the year
A short drive is The Plant at 1400 W. 46th St. The Plant is a research and production facility for a number of small, local food businesses including cheese, Kombucha, beer, microgreens and herbs, coffee, bread and chocolate. Most are not open to the public, but tours and weekly markets are available and you can pick up direct orders. You can also enjoy the large taproom for Whiner Beer while tasting one of their beers and ordering a pizza.
